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Starters include oysters with various sauces, mousses and caviar, tuna tartare and aubergine parmigiana, but their burrata with plum tomatoes and basil remains a reliable, comforting way to begin. A thick, meaty goose ragù which coats strands of tagliatelle is a winner, delicious without being over-finessed. The menu has a dedicated section for Milanese favourites, among them risotto and veal cutlets, but it’s the Lombard staple, osso buco, that you should try: tender from hours cooking in broth, and served with creamy mashed potato. There are occasional playful twists, such as the fusion of cannoncini with namelaka cream, but overall the restaurant seems to play it too safe, and too gentle. It’s not a cheap place to eat, so you’d hope for a bit of boldness. Perhaps it’s a teething problem; thankfully the wine list packs an impressive punch.

Highlight: Among all the formality, the babà di lasagne is something fun. Layers of lasagne are wrapped to create the shape of a rum baba which holds a rustic Neapolian-style ragù at its centre. While the outside is crisp from the over, the inside is gooey and rich.

Details: 10 Blenheim Street, Mayfair, London W1S 1LH (020 8138 1196; gianninomayfair.com)

Reviewed by Benjamin Parker